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September 2014

31/8/2014 19:52:15

Jason's Thought Corner: Special from Greece

Jason Withers in Greece

Colour Mixing in Design

This month I'd like to talk about coloured diamonds and the contrast of colour of metal coming together to create a unique design. Platinum, white gold, yellow gold, rose gold can be mixed with any colour combination of white, pink, black, etc. diamonds to give a stunning contrast or enhance the colour

This month just gone, we have created some fantastic examples of mixing things up a bit:

Colour Mixing in Design (1)

This Argyle pink diamond ring, (pictured) in majority 18k white gold has a double halo of small diamonds around the centre pink diamond, the first halo being pink diamonds set in rose gold and the second halo of fine white diamonds in white gold. The 6 claws on the centre pink diamond are also in rose gold. The rose gold on pink diamonds not only enhances the colour, but it makes sure that it does not take away or break up any of that wonderful pink colour which might happen if all set in white gold.

Colour Mixing in Design (2)

This Platinum ring (above) has a 0.17ct trilliant cut blue diamond in centre bezel of rose gold. The surrounding white diamonds are in platinum, which is slightly greyer than white gold, giving a beautiful clean contrast.

Colour Mixing in Design (3)

The Tabit design features a matching pair of heart shape Argyle pink diamonds, white gold, fine white diamonds, a sizzling 1.50ct cushion cut centre diamond. The heart shaped pink diamonds accent the centre setting, giving excellent contrast and sweet beauty.

Colour Mixing in Design (4)

The Talitha design features a yellow gold barrel underneath the centre setting with white diamonds. White gold sweeping arms alongside a yellow gold band holding a centre round brilliant cut white diamond. This is a stunning ring in the flesh, achieved by finely separating the metals through the highest level of manufacture.

See you next time,

In focus: Hearts and Arrows

Diamonds cut with precisely aligned and optimally proportioned facets produce a fascinating pattern called Hearts & Arrows (H&A), a visual phenomenon that appears in the finest Ideal Cut diamonds when viewed through a gemscope.

Not all Triple Excellent Diamonds display Hearts & Arrows, there is still a great deal of variance in the look of the diamond within these parameters. The diamond GIA certificate does not in itself guarantee the sparkle of a diamond. There is, however, a sweet spot: a narrow range within parameters that produces unbridled brilliance and scintillation. This narrow range also shows Hearts & Arrows.

Not all Hearts & Arrows Diamonds are GIA Triple Excellent Diamonds. It is possible to see a Hearts & Arrows pattern in a stone if the polish or proportions are not ideal. Polish has very little to do with the pattern. Poor polish on an otherwise ideal diamond, will create a wavy effect when viewed through a scope, visible only to the trained eye, and will decrease the diamond's brilliance.

In focus: Hearts & Arrows (1)

When a diamond is accompanied by a GIA Triple Excellent lab report and displays a perfect Hearts & Arrows pattern, you can be assured that the cut of this particular diamond has achieved the highest standards anywhere. This is truly a masterpiece of workmanship and the culmination of a marriage between technology and nature.

Do you need to pay for additional technology? The simple answer is NO. The Arrows Scope is the most important tool. It is low-tech: It does not require batteries or an internal light source, nor does it require years of schooling to interpret.

Proportions and symmetry

Perfect proportions coupled with perfect symmetry produce the beautiful Hearts & Arrows effect of these Super Ideal Cut diamonds. The GIA grade symmetry according to where the facet junctions meet. This does not take into consideration the differences between facet angles or the relative ratios of the different facets. This explains why Ideal Cuts can lack a Hearts & Arrows patterns.

It takes a total of 6 facets (2 lower girdle facets, 2 pavilion main facets and 2 upper girdle facets) to create one heart. The chevron is separated from the heart by the lower girdle facets. If the lower girdle facets are asymmetrical or disproportionate with the angles of the pavilion main facets one will not achieve perfect Hearts. Any deviation from perfection will be seen through the H&A Viewer.

Hearts and Arrows viewer

The H&A Viewer is merciless when it comes to detecting any deviation from perfection. This device, as low-tech as it is, can clearly show even the untrained eye how well or how poorly a diamond is cut. We have assembled a few images below, to give you a clearer idea of what you want to avoid.

Bad Hearts

These diamonds are graded by the the GIA as Triple Excellent but are not Hearts & Arrows. Bad Hearts are uneven in size and shape, grooved, misshapen or nonexistent.

In focus: Hearts & Arrows (2)

Bad Arrows

Bad Arrows are not properly aligned and shafts or points fail to appear.

In focus: Hearts & Arrows (3)

What you want to look for:

Good Hearts

These diamonds are graded by the GIA as Triple Excellent with Hearts & Arrows. Good Hearts display a perfect pattern, consisting of symmetrical, equally sized and shaped hearts.

In focus: Hearts & Arrows (4)

Good Arrows

Good Arrows consist of a perfectly symmetrical pattern of equally sized and shaped arrows aligned on the shaft.

In focus: Hearts & Arrows (5)

Minor inconsistencies

The H&A Viewer is not a scientific tool and should not be used to try to analyse the beauty of the diamond. Minor inconsistencies such as slightly pronounced grooves in the Hearts or the presence or absence of flares on the arrows have no bearing on the visual beauty of the diamond. These inconsistencies are often due to the particular setup used in photography. In viewing the Hearts it is important to look at the overall consistency of size and shape of the Hearts. Good Arrows are properly aligned with the arrowhead centred on the shaft.

Perfect Hearts and Arrows

In focus: Hearts & Arrows (6)

Perfect Hearts - viewed bottom-up or through the pavilion A perfect pattern, consisting of symmetrical, equally sized and shaped hearts.

In focus: Hearts & Arrows (7)

Perfect Arrows - viewed through the top or table. A perfectly symmetrical pattern, consisting of equally sized and shaped arrows.

Were your questions answered? Please give us a call at the studio if you have any more questions about diamond certification and specifications.

Rare 12-Carat 'Blue Moon' Diamond To Be Unveiled At L.A. Natural History Museum

Blue diamonds are among the rarest gems in the world. But all blues are not created equal and even in this rarified category a few stand out.

Appropriately named the "Blue Moon" (as in "once in a blue moon"), this stunning blue diamond will make its first and likely only public appearance at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County in an exhibition from September 13 – January 6.

What separates this diamond from so many of its peers is its colour saturation and shade, its clarity and its size. The 12-carat cushion-cut diamond has been given a colour grading of "fancy vivid" with an "internally flawless" clarity grading from the Gemological Institute of America.

In addition, its colour was further tested under ultraviolet light by the Smithsonian Institution under the supervision of Jeffrey Post, curator of the National Gem and Mineral Collection. The trace element Boron within the carbon structure of the stone is responsible for the colour of a blue diamond. Boron also produces a unique phosphorescent red glow under ultraviolet light.

The Blue Moon. Photo credit: Cora International/Tino Hammid

Under ultraviolet light testing the gem produced an orangey-red glow for 20 seconds, longer than most blue diamonds, showing that the blue in the Blue Moon diamond is true and saturated throughout the stone with no other colours—such as grey, which is common for blue diamonds, said Suzette Gomes, CEO of Cora International, a diamonds and jewels manufacturer known for working with statement diamonds. Also, blue diamonds are known to exhibit a blue-green glow under ultraviolet light.

"That for us was a big thing because it gives you the purity of the diamond," Gomes said on the other side of a desk with the Blue Moon between us on a grey felt tray inside Cora’s office in New York. "Other blues also glow phosphor red but it doesn’t last as long."

There is no one more excited about this gem than Gomes who has called the Blue Moon her career highlight and a privilege to work with. Few have spent more time with the gem as well.

"The fact that you could buy it rough, plan it and cut it is special," she said. "This is a billion years old and it’s going to be here long after we’re gone. That’s the beauty of diamonds."

The Blue Moon was produced from a 29.62-carat rough diamond unearthed at the Cullinan mine in South Africa in January. The mine is known for producing the most blue diamonds in the world but these gems still only account for 0.1 percent of its total diamond output, Gomes said. As mentioned earlier, its clarity and colour makes the gem even rarer.

Cora acquired the rough for approximately $26 million in February and went right to work, finishing the piece only three weeks ago. All of the testing results from the Smithsonian and GIA were not completed as of Friday.

The Blue Moon in the Cora International office. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The fact that the origin of the diamond is known makes this special as well, Gomes said.

"A lot of time with diamonds you don't know what the origin is," she said. "Someone has a one-carat vivid blue that their grandmother had and nobody knows where it came from."

Sitting flat on a grey pad under normal office lighting didn’t provide the best view of the diamond but its shade of blue is unmistakable. Unlike the Hope Diamond, which has a blue that is deep, dark and rich, the Blue Moon is closer to an aqua blue. Gomes refers to it as "ocean blue." In fact, the facets appear as if they are wavelets on water. Finally, it’s transparent. You can see clear through the diamond. So picture a clear-blue lake with sunlight dancing on its rippled surface and that comes close to the colour of the Blue Moon.

Gomes said the cushion cut makes it most ideal to be used as a brooch or a ring, although she would display it on a wall as art. She refuses to discuss its value and will not compare it to other stones. But, the largest known fancy vivid, flawless diamond (slightly higher than the IF clarity grade the Blue Moon received) is a pear-shaped, 13.22-carat stone purchased by the Harry Winston luxury jewellery brand for $23.8 million at Christie’s Geneva in April. Renamed the "Winston Blue," the nearly $1.8 million-per-carat price paid is a world record for a blue diamond.

Gomes said she would rather focus on getting the Blue Moon to L.A. for the exhibition at the Natural History Museum.

"We just want to get through the exhibition in the hope that it raises its profile," she said. "I want to help them. What they do is awesome and they always struggle for money. They need funding and this will raise their profile too so it’s good for everyone."

See full story at:

* * *

Triple Excellent Diamonds Catalog

See our Triple Excellent diamonds section on our website to view rare and stunning diamond opportunities to purchase for yourself!

Debbie's pick of the month

Sometimes a girl deserves to treat herself, and this is precisely what the lovely, Lisa, decided to do with the creation of this amazing dress ring as a gift to herself. There is nothing better than seeing a client overjoyed with their finished product, and Lisa continues to contact me to say how much she loves it. A real pleasure for both of us.

Debbie's Pick Of The Month (1)

Debbie's Pick Of The Month (2)

Debbie's Pick Of The Month (3)

1 x 18ct white gold diamond set ring. Set with 42 x 2.9mm Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds (E/F VS) TDW approx. 4.2ct. Metal weight 14.81g.

Emily's pick of the month

This beautiful ring was inspired by a a vintage piece that our client had admired. The milgrain detailing and contoured shapes between the stones give it that Art Deco feel.

Emily's Pick Of The Month (1)

Emily's Pick Of The Month (2)

1 x 18ct white gold custom designed engagement ring. Set with 1 x 0.75ct cushion cut diamond, GIA certified, D colour, VS2 clarity, EX/VG, 2 x 1.7mm and 20 x 1.4mm round brilliant cut shoulder diamonds of E/F colour, VS clarity totalling 0.28ct. Finger size H. Metal weight 4.93 grams.


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Agatha Christie's diamond jewellery up for sale

A diamond three-stone ring found in a trunk at Agatha Christie's house which is to be sold at auctioned

When the contents of Agatha Christie's former home were put up for sale, a battered canvas trunk was among the more affordable lots.

The trunk sold for £100 (AUD$177) to Jennifer Grant, a Christie enthusiast, who was puzzled to discover it contained a locked strongbox with no key.

For four years, the contents remained a mystery. Then, in 2010, Miss Grant asked a builder working on her home to prise open the metal box with a crowbar.

To their amazement, it contained some of the Christie family jewels: a 19th century diamond buckle brooch and what is believed to have been Christie's mother's engagement ring. Both pieces are going under the hammer at Bonhams in Knightsbridge on October 8 with an estimate of £9,000-£14,000 (AUD $15,000-$25,000).

Miss Grant has decided it is time to sell. "As an Agatha Christie fan, it's wonderful to think that these items actually touched her life. I've enjoyed the jewellery greatly over the last four years but I don't wear it as much as it deserves. I thought, ‘Why not let someone else enjoy them?'" she said.

Miss Grant bought the trunk in 2006 at a sale of the contents of Greenway, Christie's former home on the banks of the River Dart in Devon. The author's only daughter, Rosalind Hicks, had lived at Greenway until her death in 2004.

The trunk bore the initials of Christie's mother, Clara Margaret Miller. The strongbox had not been mentioned in the auction catalogue and Miss Grant only discovered it when the trunk was delivered to her home.

She said: "I was thrilled to have stumbled upon my very own mystery. I always wondered what was locked inside the strongbox but I never dreamt it would be anything so exciting as diamonds – I could hardly breathe when I unwrapped the tissue paper and found them."

The box also contained 35 gold sovereigns and 17 half-sovereigns in a crocheted bag. But it was the jewellery, stored in a cardboard box, that carried a personal link to Christie.

The crime writer died in 1976. In her autobiography, published posthumously in 1977, she mentioned that she and her sister, Madge, hoped to inherit some of their mother's jewels which had been packed in trunks for safekeeping.

Agatha Christie is believed to have inherited the diamond ring and buckle brooch from her mother (JEFF GILBERT)

She wrote: "My mother’s valuable jewellery consisted of ‘my diamond buckle’, ‘my diamond crescent’ and ‘my diamond engagement ring’… Madge was to have the diamond crescent, I was to have the diamond buckle..."

Bonhams has given the ring an estimate of £3,000-5,000(AUD $5,000-$9,000), while the brooch is expected to fetch £6,000-8,000(AUD$10,500-$14,000).

The auctioneer who handled the 2006 sale, Andrew Thomas of Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood, said at the time that he was "perplexed" that the strongbox had been overlooked during the valuation and found it "almost unbelievable".

But Christie’s grandson, Mathew Prichard, said the new owner of the trunk "has been lucky – and good luck to them".

See full story at:

September Newsletter Special

For 48 hours only, this stunning piece ring is only $9500!

This unique ring is set with a 1.20ct natural African emerald of exceptional colour measuring 7 x 6 mm. It is flanked by 4 straight baguette cut diamonds on either side measuring 5 x 2 mm each, of E/F colour, VS clarity. The heavy band has a flat profile with over 6 grams of metal weight and beautiful filigree detailing on the side of the head. It is all in 18k white gold of the highest quality.

September special (1)

September special (2)

September special (3)

Why not share this with your friends who may be looking for that something special to surprise their loved one with?

Please enquire at the studio +61 (7) 3839-4088 if you are interested in purchasing this gorgeous piece. It can be sized perfectly to fit at no extra charge.

Coming up in September

Jason will be returning from his overseas trip in the middle of the month. Emily is off to be the bridesmaid at her mother's wedding in the UK (how lovely!). With Father's Day to celebrate, and dare we say it, Christmas to begin to think about, there are always reasons to be looking ahead and planning your next diamond purchase!

Wondering where do you even begin when you want to have a beautiful piece of jewellery made?

Make an appointment with us and bring your dream to life. We can sit down with you and create your perfect engagement ring, wedding ring or even remodel a well loved gem into a more modern setting.

As always, we are here to help with whatever it is you wish to create. Please make an appointment to see just how easy giving a custom designed, specially made piece to the one you love, can really be.

Until next time!
The Team at Jason Withers

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